Wednesday, October 18, 2017

Weekend Getaways from Bombay | Silvassa, Dadra & Nagar Haveli

Silvassa is a dusty, sun-kissed town in the westernmost part of India. It is spread over a small area with a permanent population of about a lakh, mostly comprising the indigenous tribes of the Konkan region, while another couple of lakh form its transient population - those who come in from neighbouring states for work and trade.

Known mainly for its industries, Silvassa is the capital of Dadra & Nagar Haveli, an erstwhile Portuguese settlement and now Union Territory of India. Surely you've never found Silvassa on any common list of tourist getaways from Bombay. Must be a rather boring place, right, not to have featured on any popular travel guide or listicle?


Silvassa is a hidden gem that travellers are yet to discover. It is a perfect weekend getaway from Bombay (and nearby areas), and for every kind of traveller too. Whether you want a weekend picnic with family, a solo wildlife expedition, or just a relaxing sojourn from daily life - this town will not disappoint.
Witness the beauty of Silvassa captured on my camera lens (and then I will tell you how to plan).

Weekend Getaways from Mumbai
Breathtaking view from the top of Madhuban Dam on the river Daman Ganga (the Ganga of Daman?) You can actually take a walk along the narrow road pictured, provided you've taken prior permission from the project office 2 km downtown.

There's a beautiful park and a lot of greenery at the Madhuban dam site. Found this jumpy little Black Drongo there that took a tremendous amount of effort to capture.

Wildlife safari
Get up, close and personal (but not too much) with a mating pair of lions at the Lion Safari, Vasona. There's another lion on the premises, but it is sick/old and doesn't socialise with its human visitors.

Wildlife safari
Lioness loves to pose.

Wildlife safari
Apparently, so does the sleepy lion.

Wildlife photography
"Ho ho ho, Merry Christmas! No, I'm not a reindeer. I'm a Sambhar, can't you see?"

Wildlife photography
Spotted many of these gorgeous Spotted Deer/Chital during our open jeep safari at the Dadra and Nagar Haveli Wildlife Sanctuary.

Wildlife photography
"What are YOU looking at?"

Boat ride on lake
Boat ride at the floating jetty on Dudhani Lake. Astonishingly peaceful experience.

Boat ride on lake
Wondrous Dudhani Lake. And remember, this is Silvassa, bang in the middle of the piping hot state of Gujarat.

Boat ride on lake
Our boatman belonged to one of the indigenous tribes of Silvassa and was quite happy to talk. These tribal boatmen aren't allowed to own these boats and are given measly wages to work for the boat-owners. We tipped him generously, but I'm not sure many people do.

Indian temple architecture
Swaminarayan temple: I loved it for its architecture, but not quite for its gender-based segregation practice. Yes, men sit at the front, nearest to the idols, while women sit behind them in a cordoned-off section. Indian temples, heh.

Such views all around.
Convinced? On to matters of more importance then.

How to reach
Silvassa is 27 kilometres from Vapi railway junction. Vapi is easily reachable by train from all major cities. (It took me 2 hours on the August Kranti Rajdhani from Bombay to reach Vapi). From there, a mere 35-rupee shared auto ride will take you to Silvassa bus stand. The best thing about this town is that you can walk everywhere. And if you aren't a fan of sweating it out in the heat, cheap autos are always at hand.

Things to see and do
The entire city of Silvassa, with all its wonderful sights and sounds, can be covered in one day. We booked an AC cab at INR 1500 for 8 hours, and roamed the city from noon to sunset. But that meant we spent less time at each location. If you're there for two days, I'd suggest you divide your sightseeing over two days and enjoy every site at leisure. Experiences not to miss include the Lion Safari at Vasona, the Madhuban Reservoir on River Daman Ganga, the Deer Safari at Dadra and Nagar Haveli Wildlife Sanctuary, the boat ride at Dudhani Lake, and the Tribal Museum (a very fascinating journey into the culture of the indigenous tribes of the region). While the latter is free, the tickets to the rest of the listed places are extremely cheap.

Where to stay
Silvassa has plenty of budget and luxury hotels to choose from (here's a sample list for reference). Personally, I'd suggest you do not stay at Hotel Pioneer. Its reviews on the internet may speak otherwise, but my experience was extremely frustrating. The hotel was fairly empty, and there was no further reservation for our room, but the hotel management insisted that we check out on time, despite repeated requests to let us stay a couple of hours more because our train was in the evening. The management had no qualms in watching two women travellers, one of them aged 50+, sit uncomfortably on the couch in the stuffy hotel foyer for 2 hours in the heat. You won't want to run into problems like these, knowing that the hotel staff will not help. There are hotels that offer much better service at the same price for the same kind of rooms in Silvassa. Look around and settle for one where you're most comfortable.

Pro Tip: Club Silvassa and Daman into one trip
In hindsight, I've come to realise you can fit both Silvassa (D & N Haveli) and Daman (Daman & Diu) into one weekend's itinerary. You can reach Vapi on Saturday morning, spend the day exploring Silvassa, stay the night, and then move on to Daman (30 km away) the next morning for a day full of Portuguese forts, churches, and a beach quite unlike your usual west coast beaches. An auto or taxi ride from Daman will take you back to Vapi on Sunday evening. Weekend successful? I'd say so.

Travelling girl with camera
Just your neighbourhood travelling girl with her camera.
Drop me a line if you're planning a trip to Silvassa. I'd love to help! Comment/Share/Connect on Facebook if you liked this travelogue and would want to see more.


This post was originally published on my new blog, Delhi Girl in Bombay. While that project is very close to my heart, I have recently moved back to Delhi and am not sure if and when I will be back. I am therefore transferring all my posts from that blog to this one. There's some interesting content out there, so stay tuned!

1 comment:

sathish kumar said...

amazing capture...
loved the sleepy lion snap. Applause!